Installing hardwood stairs can improve the appearance and overall appeal of a home compared with older or carpeted stairs. Hardwood is also a relatively significant visual feature because the staircase is often one of the first things people notice when entering a home. If you are considering the upgrade before selling, it is worth discussing the potential benefit with your real estate agent, as the value of the improvement will depend on the home and local market.
For a full transformation on most standard open-one-side staircases, including new spindles and a newel post, refinished treads and handrail, and refinished or painted risers and stringers, pricing starts at $3,800. The exact price depends on the staircase and the scope of work. Staircases with additional features such as balconies, curved sections, shelving, specialty nosings, or connecting flooring are quoted separately. We provide a free quote so you know the exact price before any work begins. You can request a quote through the Get My Free Quote section in the main menu or call us at (647) 280-8965.
Yes. We provide staining and finishing for hardwood stairs and stair parts. With experience in stain matching since 2002, we can match new stair components to existing flooring and other woodwork as closely as the wood species and grain will allow.
For a typical open-sided staircase with a handrail on one side, expect about 3 to 5 days from start to finish. This includes removing the existing handrail, refinishing the stairs or recapping them with new hardwood, and staining and/or painting them to your preference. We take care of the cleanup when we are done, so you are left with a finished staircase and no construction mess to deal with.
If your stringers are currently painted, repainting them is usually the better option. Stringers are almost always made from plywood with a thin hardwood veneer, and removing the existing finish can sometimes damage the veneer and expose the plywood underneath. There is also another consideration: because wood grain is porous, the existing stain can penetrate into the wood and cannot always be completely removed. This is especially important when going from a dark colour to a much lighter colour, where traces of the previous stain may remain visible. Our usual approach is to scrape, sand, and fill any imperfections, then prime and paint the stringers to complement your new stair colour.
Painted risers are usually better refinished and painted rather than stripped back to bare wood. Existing risers may have thin hardwood veneer over plywood, and stripping the paint can damage the veneer or expose the plywood underneath. Existing nail holes, filler, and holes from carpet staples or tack strips can also remain visible after stripping. For this reason, we normally recommend preparing the existing risers and painting them to complement the new tread colour.
For landings being converted from carpet to hardwood, you can use hardwood flooring planks or a solid hardwood piece shaped to fit the landing. Hardwood flooring planks are generally recommended because a large solid piece can be more susceptible to movement and cracking, especially if the landing is uneven or slightly concave. If the existing landing is already hardwood and is being refinished, we can refinish the landing as well and match it to the new staircase. This allows the stairs and landing to have a consistent finish and colour throughout.
Yes. We install new handrails in a variety of wood species and designs. However, replacing the handrail is not always necessary. In many cases, we can sand and refinish your existing handrail so it looks new and matches the rest of the staircase. Refinishing an existing handrail can also provide significant savings compared with replacing it.
We can install a wide variety of hardwood species on staircases, including Red Oak, White Oak, Maple, Jatoba, Ash, Walnut, and Birch. The best species depends on the look you want, the existing flooring, and the amount of wear the staircase receives. Birch is relatively soft compared with many other stair-grade hardwoods, so it is generally not our first recommendation for stairs.
Wrought iron spindle installation starts at $24.50 per spindle for simpler designs. The actual price depends on the spindle design. We use solid wrought iron spindles, as some lower-cost spindles on the market are hollow. We can measure, cut each spindle to the correct angle, drill and tap it to accept a machine screw, and install it. For an accurate price, tell us what spindle design you are considering. You can request a quote through the Get My Free Quote section in the main menu or call us at (647) 280-8965.
The stairwell shelf or ledge that you will find on the closed side of a curved or helix staircase can, and usually is redone using the same solid hardwood as the stairs. This includes the same nosing, stain etc.. as the stairs, only curved exactly to fit the current radius. We create a template and custom make it to fit your space.
We can match virtually any stain, regardless of the wood species, and typically achieve approximately 95% to 97% accuracy. In some cases, the match can be even closer. However, an exact colour match is not always possible because the same stain will look different on different species of wood. Grain pattern, density, and the natural colour of the wood all affect the final appearance.
Ontario’s Building Code requires openings in a stair or guard system to be small enough that a 100 mm sphere cannot pass through them. This applies to spindle spacing on stairs and balconies, as well as openings between treads on open-riser staircases. If your existing spindle spacing is too wide, one of the best solutions is often to use a decorative wrought iron spindle that naturally closes the gap. Wider decorative designs, such as scrolls, flowers, or window-style spindles, can fill more of the opening while using the existing spindle holes. This can often correct the spacing without having to plug and redrill the existing holes. If a decorative spindle pattern isn’t suitable for your staircase, we can also respace the spindles by plugging the existing holes and drilling new ones. The amount of work involved depends on whether the nosings and other surfaces are being refinished or replaced. When possible, using a decorative spindle to close the gap provides a cleaner solution and avoids unnecessary drilling, plugging, and refinishing.
The railing and spindles AKA pickets or balusters must be removed and new spindle holes will be drilled once the new treads have been installed.
Yes. We can maintain the same curved shape of your existing bottom stair when we renovate the staircase. If you prefer a more modern look, we can also remove the volute, which is the rounded handrail section at the bottom of the stairs, and square it off. Some clients prefer this option because it gives the staircase a cleaner, more contemporary appearance.
We address existing squeaks before and during installation. When new treads are installed, the staircase becomes substantially tighter and more solid, which helps reduce the likelihood of squeaks returning. When we recap existing stairs, the new hardwood tread is bonded to the existing tread, and the new riser is bonded to both the existing tread and riser, creating a solid laminated structure. Most squeaks can be addressed from the top side, although occasionally a stubborn squeak may require access from the underside of the staircase for additional shimming or repair.
Yes. We use water-based stains and varnishes that are tough as nails and dry extremely quickly, allowing you to continue using the staircase throughout most of the project. There may be a short period when the stairs cannot be used while the finish dries, but in most cases, access is maintained throughout the project.
Yes we can provide all of the materials. We manufacture any type of stair and/or nosings. We have Newel posts, handrails and spindles in stock.
That depends. Keep in mind if going darker to lighter it becomes more difficult to achieve an exact match. This is because the stringer veneer can only be sanded so much. Also keep in mind, if your stringers are currently white, sanding out all of the white may not be possible. We normally recommend sanding, filling, priming and painting the stringers
The answer to all three of these questions will obviously depend on a number of factors. Please see “Get my free quote” on the main menu. You can get a quote tailored to your specific needs sometimes within hours of submission. Alternatively call us at (647) 280-8965.
If we supply the hardwood, we will supply whatever wood suits your taste and budget. Many International countries have come a long way in the manufacturing and finishing of hardwood flooring. But wit that said, many countries do not have to adhere to strick
Canadian hardwood is usually more durable than Imported hardwood for a number of reasons. There is always an exception to the rule, but in our experience, not many. The top three reasons that Canadian hardwood is better that Imported hardwood are as follows. 1) The wood itself. We know because during installation some boards need to be “Persuaded” in order to slide the tongue and groove together, due to the natural crowning characteristic of wood. Especially when using long board lengths, During this fitting process Imported wood can break apart. Canadian wood will show no signs of wear. 2) Canadian manufacturers apply more coats of oxide finish. We have seen 3 or 4 year old imported floors that need to be refinished 3) The drying process is inferior. There is an abundance of Imported wood on the market that was not dried properly before milling, so many of the board widths vary due to the boards having different moisture content, which in turn causes shrinkage, causing noticeable gaping. Again, there is always exceptions to the rule. There are most likely some great imported hardwood flooring manufacturers, but it’s the buyers who demand the cheapest possible product, to maintain a high profit margin, and sell inferior products to the consumer.
Sub-floors generally squeak because of loosened fasteners driven through a sub-floor into the floor joists. We can address your squeaky floors before installation begins. If you have excessive squeaking in multiple locations, we offer a complete floor screw down service.If you currently have carpet, think of this. When you step on the squeaky area, you are stepping “directly” on the problematic section of floor. Now, once you have installed interwoven hardwood flooring and now step on that same area, you are now distributing the weight over a much larger section of floor. So in order to apply the same pressure on the problematic area, you would need to apply much more weight. So in a nutshell, many squeaks will naturally disappear upon installationAlthough Abrasion Class (AC) ratings, which are a representation of the resistance of laminate floors to abrasion, stains, impact as well as burns are important. it’s better to install a laminate flooring with a higher class rating than a lower one when in doubt. If you are considering laminate flooring for your home, according to the Association of European Producers of Laminate Flooring (EPLF), AC2 is all one needs. But in our opinion installing a minimum of AC3 and AC4 if your home experiences heavy traffic makes more sense. Modern AC4 planks are available at an affordable price today. Remember, all it takes is, one day, one pair of stilettos in a hurry, and you will be thankful for AC4.
AC1 is suitable for lighter traffic like a bedroomNot recommended
AC2 is suitable for living rooms and dining rooms
Not recommended
AC3 is suitable for small offices and less frequented commercial locationsSufficient
AC4 Is suitable for higher traffic commercial areas like offices, and restaurants Great Residential Choice
AC5 is suitable for busy commercial areas like department stores and Government buildings etcPretty Much Bullet Proof
These are general guidelines only
Yes. We provide a written 1 year free of defects installation warranty.
Yes. All of the hardwood that we supply carries a minimum 25 years warranty. Our preferred brands carry a 35 year warranty. Our engineered hardwood and laminate also carry 25-35 year warranties.
Preventive maintenance is the key. DO NOT walk on your hardwood floors with shoes on. Especially high heels. as it’s only a matter of time before they become scratched. DO wipe up spills immediately. DO vacuum regularly using a soft bristle brush, not a beater brush. DO use felt tipped furniture pads under tables, couches etc… Directional blinds so as light does not always hit the same area’s of the floor everyday. For deep cleaning use products such as Bona to remove any normal build up. Swifers and alike are great for everyday maintenance.
In short, If you have effective humidity control within your home, and the temperature does not fluctuate significantly, your wood floors will be fine. This is because your humidity control system will compensate (add or decrease water) for the air’s ability to hold moisture. The optimal level of humidity to keep your home at in order to eliminate the chance of checking (cracking) or buckling is between 40% – 50%.
Yes, “Relative humidity” (RH) should be kept between 40% – 50%. The higher the RH, the higher the moisture content, which expands the wood causing it to swell, cup and buckle. When RH levels become is too low, the moisture in the wood reduces which causes the boards to shrink.. The result will be “Checking” or cracking. If there is one thing that you should do as an owner of a hardwood floor is ensure that your RH levels are in check. and clean up an spills immediately. Doing this will ensure the longevity of your wood floors
Wax paper is not approved by the Canadian Construction Material Centre (CCMC) as a vapour barrier. Because hardwood floors are typically installed on the main or second floors (warm to warm) a vapour barrier is not only “not needed”, but is counterintuitive. Any moisture that may settle as a result of a liquid spill will become trapped, and depending on the amount of liquid that was spilled, this could cause wood rot. Wax paper can reduce dust a little bit, and some installers like it because it makes it easier to slide the wood around using your feet. But it is in no way “needed”
Yes most definitely. Especially in high rise condominiums where the condominium board stipulates “Sound transmitting class” (STC) and “Impact insulation class” (IIC) ratings of normally 62 or better. In your home although there are no codes to be met, the higher the ratings, the quieter your house will be with regards to loud televisions, Hi Fi, as well as foot traffic.
Milling issues or problems are a nasty aspect of the hardwood flooring industry that few people are aware of. When one is viewing sample boards in flooring shops and home improvement stores, MILLING ISSUES most likely will never enter into their minds. Which is completely understandable. I mean, why should you know about milling issues? But…. one of the problems are that many, we mean many hardwood flooring manufacturers do not kiln dry the hardwood BEFORE the wood is milled. This will cause boards with higher moisture content, after the milling process to shrink, which creates a gap equal to the shrinkage difference. Most times this can be noticed before installation if the wood had already dried out. But if the wood has not completely dried out yet, further shrinkage will happen after you have installed it. Not a pretty site. So a more appropriate term for this problem should be a drying issue opposed to a milling issue. The other problem we have come across goes by the name “Lipage”. Lipage is a milling issue, and happens when the tongue’s and groove’s are milled at slightly different heights with relation to the 3/4″ thickness of the board. If you were to run your hand over the floor surface after the installation has been completed, the floor will not be smooth. The floor boards will be at slightly different heights. Also not only is this not a pretty sight, but uncomfortable to walk on when in bare or stocking feet.
No one can accurately answer that question. But hardwood floors are one of the most important features that a prospective buyer is looking for when buying a home. Bias? If you think so, then ask a real estate agent. You will get the same answer. Keep in mind that hardwood floors will also make your home more “sellable” than the house around the corner from yours that’s up for sale, that has carpet flooring.
You will find so many different answers to this question, it makes it very difficult for a homeowner to know what to do. The truth of the matter is, Time has no bearing on how long that you should acclimate hardwood. Humidity levels and temperature do. Depending on the temperature and humidity conditions of both the storage and it’s final resting place, acclimation may take 5 minutes or 5 days. Acclimation of hardwood flooring also depends on the species. For example Hickory and Maple should NOT be Acclimated because they naturally absorb moisture quicker than other species. Domestic hardwoods will not need as much time to acclimate as a Brazilian Cherry (Jatoba). And that will depend on how long the Jatoba has been sitting in a warehouse in Canada. And then it will depend on the conditions of the warehouse. A rule of thumb for acclimating domestic Oak, with boxes unopened is a day or two in the home.
(This is for information purposes only. Please speak directly to the flooring store rep, or the manufacturer)
Yes it matters a great deal what the underside of engineered hardwood is made from. Many stores where inexpensive engineered hardwood is sold you will find the backing or underside of the product made of spruce plywood. This matters because different species of wood will expand and contract at different temperatures and humidity levels. logically if you were to have a shift in temperature and/or humidity levels, with a more dense hardwood laminated or glued to a less dense softwood resistance is inevitable. This could cause warping and/or checking (cracking).
Yes we install baseboards and quarter-round or shoe mold trim. For pricing, please click on the “Get me free quote” button on main menu item. There we can provide you with a detailed and accurate quote on your entire project.
Many houses, especially ones designed before the 1980’s have a cold room above the garage. You can hire a company to spray insulation in-between each joist cavity within the garage ceiling. But the problem with this method is that if there are any obstructions in the joist cavities, such as duct work, solid bridging or scrap wood etc… the insulation will never completely fill each cavity. Of course you will never know this because you will never be able to see the completed job, even if camera’s are used. We, on the other hand will remove the sub-floor while maintaining a tie-in with the structure. Install “Batt insulation” with the proper R value in every nook and cranny. Re-install a sub-floor, and complete the job with the new desired flooring of your choice.
The Janka hardness test measures a wood’s resistance to wear and denting by pressing a steel ball bearing into its surface. The force required (measured in pounds-force) determines the wood’s hardness rating. A higher rating indicates harder, more durable wood, ideal for high-traffic areas like flooring or stair treads, while a lower rating suggests softer, easier-to-work-with wood. The test is conducted on a flat-grain surface and serves as an industry standard for comparing wood species based on durability.
To get an accurate price on removing carpet or any other type of flooring please see “Get me free quote” located on the main menu. There we can provide you with a detailed and accurate quote on your entire project.
We serve the entire GTA. Whether you live in Mississauga, Burlington, Toronto, and Oakville, or reside in Oshawa, Whitby, Pickering and Ajax, we’re ready to serve!
We do not charge for in-home evaluations. We are very confident that once you speak to us about your stair and flooring project, you will understand the work involved, and feel assured that we are the right company to do the work, along with our very competitive pricing.
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