Absolutely. While this may sound biased, ask your real estate agent, and they’ll likely confirm that installing hardwood stairs increases your home’s appeal compared to carpeted ones. Hardwood stairs not only enhance your home’s ‘salability’, but the upgrade is relatively affordable in the grand scheme of things, making it a wise investment.
This is, of course, our most frequently asked question. Stairs come in various shapes and sizes, with options that may appeal differently to each individual. To provide an accurate estimate tailored to your specific design, stair count, spindle or picket count, and material preferences, please visit the ‘Get My Free Quote’ section in the main menu. There, you can submit your details, and we will respond promptly with a detailed quote. Alternatively, feel free to call us at (647) 280-8965.
Yes, we provide staining services for your hardwood stairs and stair parts. With experience in stain matching since 2009, we ensure your stairs achieve a seamless and beautiful finish.
This is a question that we receive quite often. The time it will take to complete a hardwood staircase will depend significantly on whether or not you will need to have the stairs templated or not. Some stair treads require a template, which we manufacture slightly larger than the current stair. At that point the new tread will be accurately fitted in on site. Other stair treads are in stock and can be on site day 1 Therefore the construction of the new staircase will take between 2 and 4 days. This does not include the desired colour and finish which may be done at the shop before installation.
Due to the fact that stringers are most often made from plywood veneer (Stringers travel on both sides of the staircase , and are the structural support for the treads and risers) if they are currently painted, we can not strip the paint with a high degree of success, without the possibility of removing the thin layer of hardwood veneer, and exposing the plywood.
For this reason, the best option is to refinish the stringers by scraping, sanding and filling voids and cracks, and then priming and painting to your tint preference.
The other option is to “reface” the stringers with new hardwood veneer. This can prove costly, and when taking into consideration the project as a whole, it would normally make more sense to replace the staircase entirely.
Due to the fact that risers are most often made from plywood veneer (Risers are the vertical sections of the staircase, the “toe kick” so to speak) if they are currently painted, we can not strip the paint with a high degree of success, without the possibility of removing the thin layer of hardwood veneer, and exposing the plywood.
One must also take into account that existing nail hole filler from currently stained risers may catch your eye,.
If there is any carpet or even a carpet runner currently installed, then staple and nail holes from tack strips and carpet underlay may become visible.
For these reasons, the best option is to refinish the risers by scraping, sanding and filling voids and cracks, and then priming and painting to your tint preference.
The other viable option is to “reface” the risers with new 1/4″ thick hardwood veneer. This can be done relatively economical with fantastic results.
Your options with regards to refinishing the landings on your new hardwood staircase are to either use hardwood flooring planks, or to use a solid hardwood piece, shaped to fit the space. Hardwood flooring planks are recommended. This is due to the continual concaving of landings. This can over time cause cracking
Yes we install new handrails (or banisters). We have many different designs and species to choose from. But most of the time we sand your existing handrails to match. We can make the handrails appear brand new and the savings is significant.
We can install any type of hardwood on your staircase. Including but not limited to Red Oak, White Oak, Maple, Jatoba (Brazilian cherry), Ash, Walnut, Birch etc.. (Although Birch is not recommended, it’s quite soft.)
To change your current wood spindles to wrought iron spindles will depend on the the spindle design and count. Please see “Get my free quote” on our main menu. Alternatively call us at (647) 280-8965
The stairwell shelf or ledge that you will find on the closed side of a curved or helix staircase can, and usually is redone using the same solid hardwood as the stairs. This includes the same nosing, stain etc.. as the stairs, only curved exactly to fit the current radius. We create a template and custom make it to fit your space.
We can match any stain regardless of species, and a achieve a minimum of 95-97% accuracy. Occasionally 99.9% with a bit of luckKeep in mind the exact same colour on Oak will look different then it will on Maple for example, This is because of the grain pattern, as well as the density of the wood.
The OBC (Ontario Building Code) dictates that a 4″ sphere should not be able to pass through any part of the balustrade system.
Any part of a staircase, including spindle spacing on the stairs, balcony, or the spacing between the treads on an open riser staircase, must not exceed 3-15/16″. This code is in place so that children do not get their head stuck. Or worse, actually fall through. We can address this problem in a couple ways.
1) We can respace the spindles. The scope of this solution will depend on whether or not the existing surfaces in which the spindles are inserted, are to be replaced or refinished. For example, if we are refinishing the nosing’s (floor edge pieces) then we will need to hardwood plug the existing spindle dowel holes and drill new holes to accommodate new spindle spacing. If we are replacing the nosing’s we will only need to drill new holes in the appropriate locations.
If you have a metal fillet (flat bar, usually gold in colour which travels the length of the handrail on the underside) we will need to drill new holes in this bar to accommodate the new spindle spacing. If a metal fillet is not present, then we will need to plug, refinish and drill new holes, (as the nosing’s above). This applies only to balcony (flat sections of balustrade) which are dual doweled.
.
2) If you have decided to install new wrought iron spindles, you can chose a new spindle pattern that can naturally decrease the spindles spacing. For example you could chose an alternating pattern of plain (no design) spindle accompanied by a flower scroll, or a window type design. Because these decorative spindles have between 2-1/4″ and 6″ in width, they can effectively close the gap without and re-drilling, as we would use the same spindle dowel holes that currently exist.
The railing and spindles AKA pickets or balusters must be removed and new spindle holes will be drilled once the new treads have been installed.
Yes of course. The profile of your existing stairs will remain exactly the same
We address all squeaks before and during installation. Once the new treads are installed, your staircase will become much “tighter” further eliminating the return of such problems. The other great advantage of capping stairs, is we essentially laminate 2 solid treads together. (100% unnoticeable). Once your treads are so thick, good luck trying to deflect a 2″ solid step over a 3′ – 4′ span. No deflection, no squeaking. There are occasionally however stubborn squeaks that can only be addressed on the backside or soffit of the staircase with re-shimming. But 99% of the time addressing the underside is not necessary.On occasion, we pre-stain and varnish all stair treads before installation, thus giving you complete access 100% of the time. If we finish on-site, you will still be able to use the stairs as you please, with the exception of a few hours.
Yes we can provide all of the materials. We manufacture any type of stair and/or nosings. We have Newel posts, handrails and spindles in stock.
That depends. Keep in mind if going darker to lighter it becomes more difficult to achieve an exact match. This is because the stringer veneer can only be sanded so much. Also keep in mind, if your stringers are currently white, sanding out all of the white may not be possible. We normally recommend sanding, filling, priming and painting the stringersAbsolutely. While this may sound biased, ask your real estate agent, and they’ll likely confirm that installing hardwood stairs increases your home’s appeal compared to carpeted ones. Hardwood stairs not only enhance your home’s ‘sellability,’ but the upgrade is relatively affordable in the grand scheme of things, making it a wise investment.
This is, of course, our most frequently asked question. Stairs come in various shapes and sizes, with options that may appeal differently to each individual. To provide an accurate estimate tailored to your specific design, stair count, spindle or picket count, and material preferences, please visit the ‘Get My Free Quote’ section in the main menu. There, you can submit your details, and we will respond promptly with a detailed quote. Alternatively, feel free to call us at (647) 280-8965.
Yes, we provide staining services for your hardwood stairs and stair parts. With experience in stain matching since 2002, we ensure your stairs achieve a seamless and beautiful finish.
This is a question that we receive quite often. The time it will take to complete a hardwood staircase will depend significantly on whether or not you will need to have the stairs templated or not. Some stair treads require a template, which we manufacture slightly larger than the current stair. At that point the new tread will be accurately fitted in on site. Other stair treads are in stock and can be on site day 1 Therefore the construction of the new staircase will take between 2 and 4 days. This does not include the desired colour and finish which may be done at the shop before installation.
Due to the fact that stringers are most often made from plywood veneer (Stringers travel on both sides of the staircase , and are the structural support for the treads and risers) if they are currently painted, we can not strip the paint with a high degree of success, without the possibility of removing the thin layer of hardwood veneer, and exposing the plywood. For this reason, the best option is to refinish the stringers by scraping, sanding and filling voids and cracks, and then priming and painting to your tint preference.The other option is to “reface” the stringers with new hardwood veneer. This can prove costly, and when taking into consideration the project as a whole, it would normally make more sense to replace the staircase entirely.Due to the fact that risers are most often made from plywood veneer (Risers are the vertical sections of the staircase, the “toe kick” so to speak) if they are currently painted, we can not strip the paint with a high degree of success, without the possibility of removing the thin layer of hardwood veneer, and exposing the plywood.
One must also take into account that existing nail hole filler from currently stained risers may catch your eye,.
If there is any carpet or even a carpet runner currently installed, then staple and nail holes from tack strips and carpet underlay may become visible.
For these reasons, the best option is to refinish the risers by scraping, sanding and filling voids and cracks, and then priming and painting to your tint preference.
The other viable option is to “reface” the risers with new 1/4″ thick hardwood veneer. This can be done relatively economical with fantastic results.
Your options with regards to refinishing the landings on your new hardwood staircase are to either use hardwood flooring planks, or to use a solid hardwood piece, shaped to fit the space. Hardwood flooring planks are recommended. This is due to the continual concaving of landings. This can over time cause crackingYes we install new handrails (or banisters). We have many different designs and species to choose from. But most of the time we sand your existing handrails to match. We can make the handrails appear brand new and the savings is significant.
We can install any type of hardwood on your staircase. Including but not limited to Red Oak, White Oak, Maple, Jatoba (Brazilian cherry), Ash, Walnut, Birch etc.. (Although Birch is not recommended, it’s quite soft.)
To change your current wood spindles to wrought iron spindles will depend on the the spindle design and count. Please see “Get my free quote” on our main menu. Alternatively call us at (647) 280-8965.[/caption]
The stairwell shelf or ledge that you will find on the closed side of a curved or helix staircase can, and usually is redone using the same solid hardwood as the stairs. This includes the same nosing, stain etc.. as the stairs, only curved exactly to fit the current radius. We create a template and custom make it to fit your space.We can match any stain regardless of species, and a achieve a minimum of 95-97% accuracy. Occasionally 99.9% with a bit of luckKeep in mind the exact same colour on Oak will look different then it will on Maple for example, This is because of the grain pattern, as well as the density of the wood.The OBC (Ontario Building Code) dictates that a 4″ sphere should not be able to pass through any part of the balustrade system.
Any part of a staircase, including spindle spacing on the stairs, balcony, or the spacing between the treads on an open riser staircase, must not exceed 3-15/16″. This code is in place so that children do not get their head stuck. Or worse, actually fall through. We can address this problem in a couple ways.
1) We can respace the spindles. The scope of this solution will depend on whether or not the existing surfaces in which the spindles are inserted, are to be replaced or refinished. For example, if we are refinishing the nosing’s (floor edge pieces) then we will need to hardwood plug the existing spindle dowel holes and drill new holes to accommodate new spindle spacing. If we are replacing the nosing’s we will only need to drill new holes in the appropriate locations.
If you have a metal fillet (flat bar, usually gold in colour which travels the length of the handrail on the underside) we will need to drill new holes in this bar to accommodate the new spindle spacing. If a metal fillet is not present, then we will need to plug, refinish and drill new holes, (as the nosing’s above). This applies only to balcony (flat sections of balustrade) which are dual doweled.
.
2) If you have decided to install new wrought iron spindles, you can chose a new spindle pattern that can naturally decrease the spindles spacing. For example you could chose an alternating pattern of plain (no design) spindle accompanied by a flower scroll, or a window type design. Because these decorative spindles have between 2-1/4″ and 6″ in width, they can effectively close the gap without and re-drilling, as we would use the same spindle dowel holes that currently exist.
The railing and spindles AKA pickets or balusters must be removed and new spindle holes will be drilled once the new treads have been installed.
Yes of course. The profile of your existing stairs will remain exactly the same.[/caption]
We address all squeaks before and during installation. Once the new treads are installed, your staircase will become much “tighter” further eliminating the return of such problems. The other great advantage of capping stairs, is we essentially laminate 2 solid treads together. (100% unnoticeable). Once your treads are so thick, good luck trying to deflect a 2″ solid step over a 3′ – 4′ span. No deflection, no squeaking. There are occasionally however stubborn squeaks that can only be addressed on the backside or soffit of the staircase with re-shimming. But 99% of the time addressing the underside is not necessary.
On occasion, we pre-stain and varnish all stair treads before installation, thus giving you complete access 100% of the time. If we finish on-site, you will still be able to use the stairs as you please, with the exception of a few hours.Yes we can provide all of the materials. We manufacture any type of stair and/or nosings. We have Newel posts, handrails and spindles in stock.That depends. Keep in mind if going darker to lighter it becomes more difficult to achieve an exact match. This is because the stringer veneer can only be sanded so much. Also keep in mind, if your stringers are currently white, sanding out all of the white may not be possible. We normally recommend sanding, filling, priming and painting the stringers
The answer to all three of these questions will obviously depend on a number of factors. Please see “Get my free quote” on the main menu. You can get a quote tailored to your specific needs sometimes within hours of submission. Alternatively call us at (647) 280-8965.
If we supply the hardwood, we will supply whatever wood suits your taste and budget. Many International countries have come a long way in the manufacturing and finishing of hardwood flooring. But wit that said, many countries do not have to adhere to strick
Canadian hardwood is usually more durable than Imported hardwood for a number of reasons. There is always an exception to the rule, but in our experience, not many. The top three reasons that Canadian hardwood is better that Imported hardwood are as follows. 1) The wood itself. We know because during installation some boards need to be “Persuaded” in order to slide the tongue and groove together, due to the natural crowning characteristic of wood. Especially when using long board lengths, During this fitting process Imported wood can break apart. Canadian wood will show no signs of wear. 2) Canadian manufacturers apply more coats of oxide finish. We have seen 3 or 4 year old imported floors that need to be refinished 3) The drying process is inferior. There is an abundance of Imported wood on the market that was not dried properly before milling, so many of the board widths vary due to the boards having different moisture content, which in turn causes shrinkage, causing noticeable gaping. Again, there is always exceptions to the rule. There are most likely some great imported hardwood flooring manufacturers, but it’s the buyers who demand the cheapest possible product, to maintain a high profit margin, and sell inferior products to the consumer.
Sub-floors generally squeak because of loosened fasteners driven through a sub-floor into the floor joists. We can address your squeaky floors before installation begins. If you have excessive squeaking in multiple locations, we offer a complete floor screw down service.If you currently have carpet, think of this. When you step on the squeaky area, you are stepping “directly” on the problematic section of floor. Now, once you have installed interwoven hardwood flooring and now step on that same area, you are now distributing the weight over a much larger section of floor. So in order to apply the same pressure on the problematic area, you would need to apply much more weight. So in a nutshell, many squeaks will naturally disappear upon installationAlthough Abrasion Class (AC) ratings, which are a representation of the resistance of laminate floors to abrasion, stains, impact as well as burns are important. it’s better to install a laminate flooring with a higher class rating than a lower one when in doubt. If you are considering laminate flooring for your home, according to the Association of European Producers of Laminate Flooring (EPLF), AC2 is all one needs. But in our opinion installing a minimum of AC3 and AC4 if your home experiences heavy traffic makes more sense. Modern AC4 planks are available at an affordable price today. Remember, all it takes is, one day, one pair of stilettos in a hurry, and you will be thankful for AC4.
AC1 is suitable for lighter traffic like a bedroomNot recommended
AC2 is suitable for living rooms and dining rooms
Not recommended
AC3 is suitable for small offices and less frequented commercial locationsSufficient
AC4 Is suitable for higher traffic commercial areas like offices, and restaurants Great Residential Choice
AC5 is suitable for busy commercial areas like department stores and Government buildings etcPretty Much Bullet Proof
These are general guidelines only
Yes. We provide a written 1 year free of defects installation warranty.
Yes. All of the hardwood that we supply carries a minimum 25 years warranty. Our preferred brands carry a 35 year warranty. Our engineered hardwood and laminate also carry 25-35 year warranties.
Preventive maintenance is the key. DO NOT walk on your hardwood floors with shoes on. Especially high heels. as it’s only a matter of time before they become scratched. DO wipe up spills immediately. DO vacuum regularly using a soft bristle brush, not a beater brush. DO use felt tipped furniture pads under tables, couches etc… Directional blinds so as light does not always hit the same area’s of the floor everyday. For deep cleaning use products such as Bona to remove any normal build up. Swifers and alike are great for everyday maintenance.
In short, If you have effective humidity control within your home, and the temperature does not fluctuate significantly, your wood floors will be fine. This is because your humidity control system will compensate (add or decrease water) for the air’s ability to hold moisture. The optimal level of humidity to keep your home at in order to eliminate the chance of checking (cracking) or buckling is between 40% – 50%.
Yes, “Relative humidity” (RH) should be kept between 40% – 50%. The higher the RH, the higher the moisture content, which expands the wood causing it to swell, cup and buckle. When RH levels become is too low, the moisture in the wood reduces which causes the boards to shrink.. The result will be “Checking” or cracking. If there is one thing that you should do as an owner of a hardwood floor is ensure that your RH levels are in check. and clean up an spills immediately. Doing this will ensure the longevity of your wood floors
Wax paper is not approved by the Canadian Construction Material Centre (CCMC) as a vapour barrier. Because hardwood floors are typically installed on the main or second floors (warm to warm) a vapour barrier is not only “not needed”, but is counterintuitive. Any moisture that may settle as a result of a liquid spill will become trapped, and depending on the amount of liquid that was spilled, this could cause wood rot. Wax paper can reduce dust a little bit, and some installers like it because it makes it easier to slide the wood around using your feet. But it is in no way “needed”
Yes most definitely. Especially in high rise condominiums where the condominium board stipulates “Sound transmitting class” (STC) and “Impact insulation class” (IIC) ratings of normally 62 or better. In your home although there are no codes to be met, the higher the ratings, the quieter your house will be with regards to loud televisions, Hi Fi, as well as foot traffic.
Milling issues or problems are a nasty aspect of the hardwood flooring industry that few people are aware of. When one is viewing sample boards in flooring shops and home improvement stores, MILLING ISSUES most likely will never enter into their minds. Which is completely understandable. I mean, why should you know about milling issues? But…. one of the problems are that many, we mean many hardwood flooring manufacturers do not kiln dry the hardwood BEFORE the wood is milled. This will cause boards with higher moisture content, after the milling process to shrink, which creates a gap equal to the shrinkage difference. Most times this can be noticed before installation if the wood had already dried out. But if the wood has not completely dried out yet, further shrinkage will happen after you have installed it. Not a pretty site. So a more appropriate term for this problem should be a drying issue opposed to a milling issue. The other problem we have come across goes by the name “Lipage”. Lipage is a milling issue, and happens when the tongue’s and groove’s are milled at slightly different heights with relation to the 3/4″ thickness of the board. If you were to run your hand over the floor surface after the installation has been completed, the floor will not be smooth. The floor boards will be at slightly different heights. Also not only is this not a pretty sight, but uncomfortable to walk on when in bare or stocking feet.
No one can accurately answer that question. But hardwood floors are one of the most important features that a prospective buyer is looking for when buying a home. Bias? If you think so, then ask a real estate agent. You will get the same answer. Keep in mind that hardwood floors will also make your home more “sellable” than the house around the corner from yours that’s up for sale, that has carpet flooring.
You will find so many different answers to this question, it makes it very difficult for a homeowner to know what to do. The truth of the matter is, Time has no bearing on how long that you should acclimate hardwood. Humidity levels and temperature do. Depending on the temperature and humidity conditions of both the storage and it’s final resting place, acclimation may take 5 minutes or 5 days. Acclimation of hardwood flooring also depends on the species. For example Hickory and Maple should NOT be Acclimated because they naturally absorb moisture quicker than other species. Domestic hardwoods will not need as much time to acclimate as a Brazilian Cherry (Jatoba). And that will depend on how long the Jatoba has been sitting in a warehouse in Canada. And then it will depend on the conditions of the warehouse. A rule of thumb for acclimating domestic Oak, with boxes unopened is a day or two in the home.
(This is for information purposes only. Please speak directly to the flooring store rep, or the manufacturer)
Yes it matters a great deal what the underside of engineered hardwood is made from. Many stores where inexpensive engineered hardwood is sold you will find the backing or underside of the product made of spruce plywood. This matters because different species of wood will expand and contract at different temperatures and humidity levels. logically if you were to have a shift in temperature and/or humidity levels, with a more dense hardwood laminated or glued to a less dense softwood resistance is inevitable. This could cause warping and/or checking (cracking).
The answer to all three of these questions will obviously depend on a number of factors. Please see “Get my free quote” on the main menu. You can get a quote tailored to your specific needs sometimes within hours of submission. Alternatively call us at (647) 280-8965.
If we supply the hardwood, we will supply whatever wood suits your taste and budget. Many International countries have come a long way in the manufacturing and finishing of hardwood flooring. But with that said, many countries do not have to adhere to such strict guidelines as Canadian manufactures do.Canadian hardwood is usually more durable than Imported hardwood for a number of reasons. There is always an exception to the rule, but in our experience, not many. The top three reasons that Canadian hardwood is better that Imported hardwood are as follows. 1) The wood itself. We know because during installation some boards need to be “Persuaded” in order to slide the tongue and groove together, due to the natural crowning characteristic of wood. Especially when using long board lengths, During this fitting process Imported wood can break apart. Canadian wood will show no signs of wear. 2) Canadian manufacturers apply more coats of oxide finish. We have seen 3 or 4 year old imported floors that need to be refinished 3) The drying process is inferior. There is an abundance of Imported wood on the market that was not dried properly before milling, so many of the board widths vary due to the boards having different moisture content, which in turn causes shrinkage, causing noticeable gaping. Again, there is always exceptions to the rule. There are most likely some great imported hardwood flooring manufacturers, but it’s the buyers who demand the cheapest possible product, to maintain a high profit margin, and sell inferior products to the consumer.
Sub-floors generally squeak because of loosened fasteners driven through a sub-floor into the floor joists. We can address your squeaky floors before installation begins. If you have excessive squeaking in multiple locations, we offer a complete floor screw down service.
If you currently have carpet, think of this. When you step on the squeaky area, you are stepping “directly” on the problematic section of floor. Now, once you have installed interwoven hardwood flooring and now step on that same area, you are now distributing the weight over a much larger section of floor. So in order to apply the same pressure on the problematic area, you would need to apply much more weight. So in a nutshell, many squeaks will naturally disappear upon installation
Although Abrasion Class (AC) ratings, which are a representation of the resistance of laminate floors to abrasion, stains, impact as well as burns are important. it’s better to install a laminate flooring with a higher class rating than a lower one when in doubt. If you are considering laminate flooring for your home, according to the Association of European Producers of Laminate Flooring (EPLF), AC2 is all one needs. But in our opinion installing a minimum of AC3 and AC4 if your home experiences heavy traffic makes more sense. Modern AC4 planks are available at an affordable price today. Remember, all it takes is, one day, one pair of stilettos in a hurry, and you will be thankful for AC4.
AC1 is suitable for lighter traffic like a bedroomNot recommended
AC2 is suitable for living rooms and dining rooms
Not recommended
AC3 is suitable for small offices and less frequented commercial locationsSufficient
AC4 Is suitable for higher traffic commercial areas like offices, and restaurants Great Residential Choice
AC5 is suitable for busy commercial areas like department stores and Government buildings etcPretty Much Bullet Proof
These are general guidelines only
Yes. We provide a written 1 year free of defects installation warranty.
Yes. All of the hardwood that we supply carries a minimum 25 years warranty. Our preferred brands carry a 35 year warranty. Our engineered hardwood and laminate also carry 25-35 year warranties.
Preventive maintenance is the key. DO NOT walk on your hardwood floors with shoes on. Especially high heels. as it’s only a matter of time before they become scratched. DO wipe up spills immediately. DO vacuum regularly using a soft bristle brush, not a beater brush. DO use felt tipped furniture pads under tables, couches etc… Directional blinds so as light does not always hit the same area’s of the floor everyday. For deep cleaning use products such as Bona to remove any normal build up. Swifers and alike are great for everyday maintenance.
In short, If you have effective humidity control within your home, and the temperature does not fluctuate significantly, your wood floors will be fine. This is because your humidity control system will compensate (add or decrease water) for the air’s ability to hold moisture. The optimal level of humidity to keep your home at in order to eliminate the chance of checking (cracking) or buckling is between 40% – 50%.
Yes, “Relative humidity” (RH) should be kept between 40% – 50%. The higher the RH, the higher the moisture content, which expands the wood causing it to swell, cup and buckle. When RH levels become is too low, the moisture in the wood reduces which causes the boards to shrink.. The result will be “Checking” or cracking. If there is one thing that you should do as an owner of a hardwood floor is ensure that your RH levels are in check. and clean up an spills immediately. Doing this will ensure the longevity of your wood floors
Wax paper is not approved by the Canadian Construction Material Centre (CCMC) as a vapour barrier. Because hardwood floors are typically installed on the main or second floors (warm to warm) a vapour barrier is not only “not needed”, but is counterintuitive. Any moisture that may settle as a result of a liquid spill will become trapped, and depending on the amount of liquid that was spilled, this could cause wood rot. Wax paper can reduce dust a little bit, and some installers like it because it makes it easier to slide the wood around using your feet. But it is in no way “needed”
Yes most definitely. Especially in high rise condominiums where the condominium board stipulates “Sound transmitting class” (STC) and “Impact insulation class” (IIC) ratings of normally 62 or better. In your home although there are no codes to be met, the higher the ratings, the quieter your house will be with regards to loud televisions, Hi Fi, as well as foot traffic.
Milling issues or problems are a nasty aspect of the hardwood flooring industry that few people are aware of. When one is viewing sample boards in flooring shops and home improvement stores, MILLING ISSUES most likely will never enter into their minds. Which is completely understandable. I mean, why should you know about milling issues? But…. one of the problems are that many, we mean many hardwood flooring manufacturers do not kiln dry the hardwood BEFORE the wood is milled. This will cause boards with higher moisture content, after the milling process to shrink, which creates a gap equal to the shrinkage difference. Most times this can be noticed before installation if the wood had already dried out. But if the wood has not completely dried out yet, further shrinkage will happen after you have installed it. Not a pretty site. So a more appropriate term for this problem should be a drying issue opposed to a milling issue. The other problem we have come across goes by the name “Lipage”. Lipage is a milling issue, and happens when the tongue’s and groove’s are milled at slightly different heights with relation to the 3/4″ thickness of the board. If you were to run your hand over the floor surface after the installation has been completed, the floor will not be smooth. The floor boards will be at slightly different heights. Also not only is this not a pretty sight, but uncomfortable to walk on when in bare or stocking feet.
No one can accurately answer that question. But hardwood floors are one of the most important features that a prospective buyer is looking for when buying a home. Bias? If you think so, then ask a real estate agent. You will get the same answer. Keep in mind that hardwood floors will also make your home more “sellable” than the house around the corner from yours that’s up for sale, that has carpet flooring.
You will find so many different answers to this question, it makes it very difficult for a homeowner to know what to do. The truth of the matter is, Time has no bearing on how long that you should acclimate hardwood. Humidity levels and temperature do. Depending on the temperature and humidity conditions of both the storage and it’s final resting place, acclimation may take 5 minutes or 5 days. Acclimation of hardwood flooring also depends on the species. For example Hickory and Maple should NOT be Acclimated because they naturally absorb moisture quicker than other species. Domestic hardwoods will not need as much time to acclimate as a Brazilian Cherry (Jatoba). And that will depend on how long the Jatoba has been sitting in a warehouse in Canada. And then it will depend on the conditions of the warehouse. A rule of thumb for acclimating domestic Oak, with boxes unopened is a day or two in the home.
(This is for information purposes only. Please speak directly to the flooring store rep, or the manufacturer)
Yes it matters a great deal what the underside of engineered hardwood is made from. Many stores where inexpensive engineered hardwood is sold you will find the backing or underside of the product made of spruce plywood. This matters because different species of wood will expand and contract at different temperatures and humidity levels. logically if you were to have a shift in temperature and/or humidity levels, with a more dense hardwood laminated or glued to a less dense softwood resistance is inevitable. This could cause warping and/or checking (cracking).
Yes we install baseboards and quarter-round or shoe mold trim. For pricing, please click on the “Get me free quote” button on main menu item. There we can provide you with a detailed and accurate quote on your entire project.
Many houses, especially ones designed before the 1980’s have a cold room above the garage. You can hire a company to spray insulation in-between each joist cavity within the garage ceiling. But the problem with this method is that if there are any obstructions in the joist cavities, such as duct work, solid bridging or scrap wood etc… the insulation will never completely fill each cavity. Of course you will never know this because you will never be able to see the completed job, even if camera’s are used. We, on the other hand will remove the sub-floor while maintaining a tie-in with the structure. Install “Batt insulation” with the proper R value in every nook and cranny. Re-install a sub-floor, and complete the job with the new desired flooring of your choice.
The Janka hardness test measures a wood’s resistance to wear and denting by pressing a steel ball bearing into its surface. The force required (measured in pounds-force) determines the wood’s hardness rating. A higher rating indicates harder, more durable wood, ideal for high-traffic areas like flooring or stair treads, while a lower rating suggests softer, easier-to-work-with wood. The test is conducted on a flat-grain surface and serves as an industry standard for comparing wood species based on durability.
To get an accurate price on removing carpet or any other type of flooring please see “Get me free quote” located on the main menu. There we can provide you with a detailed and accurate quote on your entire project.
We serve the entire GTA. Whether you live in Mississauga, Burlington, Toronto, and Oakville, or reside in Oshawa, Whitby, Pickering and Ajax, we’re ready to serve!
We do not charge for in-home evaluations. We are very confident that once you speak to us about your stair and flooring project, you will understand the work involved, and feel assured that we are the right company to do the work, along with our very competitive pricing.
Yes we install baseboards and quarter-round or shoe mold trim. For pricing, please click on the “Get me free quote” button on main menu item. There we can provide you with a detailed and accurate quote on your entire project.
Many houses, especially ones designed before the 1980’s have a cold room above the garage. You can hire a company to spray insulation in-between each joist cavity within the garage ceiling. But the problem with this method is that if there are any obstructions in the joist cavities, such as duct work, solid bridging or scrap wood etc… the insulation will never completely fill each cavity. Of course you will never know this because you will never be able to see the completed job, even if camera’s are used. We, on the other hand will remove the sub-floor while maintaining a tie-in with the structure. Install “Batt insulation” with the proper R value in every nook and cranny. Re-install a sub-floor, and complete the job with the new desired flooring of your choice.
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The Janka hardness test measures a wood’s resistance to wear and denting by pressing a steel ball bearing into its surface. The force required (measured in pounds-force) determines the wood’s hardness rating. A higher rating indicates harder, more durable wood, ideal for high-traffic areas like flooring or stair treads, while a lower rating suggests softer, easier-to-work-with wood. The test is conducted on a flat-grain surface and serves as an industry standard for comparing wood species based on durability. |
To get an accurate price on removing carpet or any other type of flooring please see “Get me free quote” located on the main menu. There we can provide you with a detailed and accurate quote on your entire project.
We serve the entire GTA. Whether you live in Mississauga, Burlington, Toronto, and Oakville, or reside in Oshawa, Whitby, Pickering and Ajax, we’re ready to serve!
We do not charge for in-home evaluations. We are very confident that once you speak to us about your stair and flooring project, you will understand the work involved, and feel assured that we are the right company to do the work, along with our very competitive pricing.
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